On the road

Italia-Greece, june 04 2005

We went as planned on May 30, there is always emotion before you press the start button, but it faded quickly with the first laps. The crossing of Italy went well.

We narrowly escaped a big hail storm on the highway in us sheltering under a bridge angel. First step in a camp located in Marghera 15 km from Venice. The next morning, we have a little time to play tourist in Venice and we offer a cafe on the Piazza San Marco.

Embarkation for Greece in the afternoon, the crossing is very quiet and it is a day of rest which is welcome after the speed in recent weeks. Arriving at Igoumenitsa in Greece is under a threatening sky, and at night, the precarious bungalow camping Kastraki is significant for us to avoid a rainy night in tents.

Today we crossed the massive Meteora between us in a few drops of rain, but once again to escape the shower... the site of Meteora with its monasteries perched on rocky peaks, is a place of great beauty.

Tomorrow we take the road towards Turkey and Istanbul...

Photo: Meteors, Greece, 2005

Turkey, june 10 2005

We are in Istanbul, the entrance into the city on a motorcycle is a test, the flow is not very fast but extremely dense. Drivers Turks abhor a vacuum and any free space is immediately filled...

This is our first real stop on the Silk Road, the city bridge between Europe and Asia has retained a charm even if it becoming more Westernized in a hurry.

Already more than 4500 km, june 16 2005

traveled from the start, after the magical landscapes of Cappadocia, a necessary step to Mount Nemrut, we now continue our journey east of Turkey...

Photo: Istanbul, Blue Mosque, Turkey, 2005

Cruel dilemma,

We drove this morning to Malatya, it's fine, the road is straight and boring. Someone stopped along the road beckons me, i thought i saw a crowd around a motorcycle, i slow down, turn around and join the group.

Ehmet, the young man who beckoned me to show me his wheel deflated and explains that the valve core of its tube is dead and he would dismantle a shell. I realized then that i forgot mine! (Chris played well, good preparation).

I have a shell on one of our spare rooms, meanwhile Jean Loup was made to turn around and joined us, but how to disassemble? there is also a minibus stopped before us, and one of the passengers began to tinker with a tool with a piece of wire, but it does not work, nothing to do...

There is only one solution, give the tube completely, a glance at Jean-Loup, we both know that part of our single tube before replacement at this stage of the journey we may one day be very expensive on the track.

In any case, it is not possible to leave Ehmet stranded with his side-car in the sun beside the road. Inside the cart's side, he carries all his camp, his blankets, and take place over his wife and three kids whose greatest shall not have more than 4 years.

I give him the tube, the problem is solved, the passengers of the minibus eclipsed, we remain alone with Ehmet and his family, i still have one last attempt to dismantle, because we have a little improved our property and equipment... miracle it works, we can repair the wheel side and preserve our precious tube.

After a few strokes, Ehmet is bright, it's a temporary repair, but it can run and win the next village without any problems.

Some days after, although i have now learned how to make a fortune shells apart, i think it would be nice to find a true as complement for our equipment, just in case...

I stop at the roadside in a store "Otolastik" (in Turkish, it can not be invented!), i explain to the guy what i'm looking for and after a little dig in his pockets, and with a smile, he hands me the little tool that he offers me,

thank you my friend.

Photo: Ehmet and his sidecar, Turkey, 2005

Iran, june 25 2005

Welcome to Iran! is a phrase we hear a lot since those days!

The passage of Bazargan checkpoint was only a formality, a few strokes of pads on our book through customs and we are in Iran.

First test, change money, banks do not change the Turkish lira, we must make changes in the street changers in black will descend on us like a swarm of locusts, and this will take us two good hours to find out the exchange rate and complete the transaction, ouf!

Our first stop is the town of Orumiye in a service station, we are a family deals with their son Ali speaks some English, they will invite us and we for the night, the attendant also offered me the full motorcycle, the hospitality of the Iranians is not really a legend. They arrive almost at times to argue the "privilege" to accompany us or show us the way.

But there are also behind the scenes, Iran is also the country of the hijab for women, and flicage permanent for everyone. There is almost not a single cop in uniform on the street, but in a quarter of an hour we arrived somewhere, usually one or two land pretty well undermined guys who speak reasonable English "hello, my friends , where are you from? Have You Any problem? ", well, they also take us a bit to push the noodles and we may well be at fault, there is one this morning while playing tourist guides m ' indicated a place where we could find alcohol and drugs... ?!?! Welcome to Iran!

Next step, the city of Quazvin we think reaching across the Alborz mountain range, so tracks in anticipation...

Mashhad,

Holy city and pilgrimage site for Shiite Muslims around the world, the whole city is built around the sacred tomb of Imam Reza, the eighth "successor" of the Prophet Muhammad, poisoned in 817 (Mashhad literally means place of martyrdom)

Access to the grave we are forbidden, but we could still enter the pregnant and fine architecture, decorations and mosaics is simply amazing, unfortunately it is forbidden to take pictures there, So the only pictures you see are taken outside of the enclosure!

Tomorrow we head of Turkmenistan for 10 days in transit.

Photo: Propaganda, no comment! Iran, 2005

Turkmenistan, july 21 2005

No, i did not lost in the sands of the Karakum! but i'm in a rush for news, we can be you too well accustomed o)), we must say that we do not Chomoni Tashkent, hunting and visas is open for the moment we have one in your pocket for China and Kazakhstan, to be continued... But with Uzbekistan we found internet connections, so here's some news on the crossing of Turkmenistan.

Everything i had read or heard about the country was to suspect the worst when crossing the borders of this country rather closed. Well it did not, of course racketeering exists but it is planned, organized and prices are displayed on the walls of the Customs: 1 USD for the disinfection of the bike (it would have most needed a good scrub !), 20 USD to offset fuel costs... it's true that gasoline prices are ridiculously low in this country, and everything else in the future... Just for the record, before leaving the country, we wanted to replenish our tanks and we could add up to 6 liters in two motorcycles, when the attendant saw the total, he made us sign spinning because it was not worth the cash we blow!

To return to the entry into the country, we were quite pleasantly surprised, the atmosphere was relaxed and after four hours of paperwork still we are back on the road, or rather in the furnace. The change began to be felt by leaving Mashhad, a hot air to breath and there is serious, it is 16 pm when we leave the customs, the levers of the bike is hot and the air is unbreathable, we will have to adapt the pace in the corner because the temperatures can easily be around 50 degrees.

There is numerous checkpoints on the road, the first one stop us, these are kids who have barely twenty years and who do their military service, but they are mostly interested in the bike, so we move quite freely.

We will ask for a few days Mary is a modern town, the Soviet big broad avenues, with plenty of green space, but it has also been reviewed by Niyazof, megalomaniacal dictator, so the program fountains, large plazas with marble statues to the glory of man, it is in any case everywhere, the red light on the walls... her benevolent smile appears EVERYWHERE!

Impossible not to miss his books because it is of course also a writer. He apparently rewrites the history of his country... I now understand better why the customs officer asked me if i had any history books in my luggage: here my Lonely planet "Central Asia" could then pass a subversive book! Reading these books is mandatory for certain content is taught in schools...

Paradoxically, despite the suffocating cult of personality, life seems pretty quiet in Turkmenistan for the common man, much more than iran for example. Niyazof, which was still free from any form of opposition, seems not to hold the country in a tight straitjacket. And despite the pressure they must undergo, the people we met were always available, helpful, considerate, i keep a very pleasant memory.

From Mary, although we are in transit, we can explore the area including the site of Merv located about thirty kilometers. So usually get up at 4am and start in the final minutes of darkness. Even i who am not one morning, i must admit it was a pleasure to ride well in the cool of the morning and then the sunrise on the site is a real treat!

The site of Merv (about 100 km2) is in fact only cities that had developed in the oasis of Murgab, we have vainly sought one of them: Gonur Depe, not enough info to locate it, we knew only that it was located about 60 km north of Merv and even the local struggle to locate it: the Karakum desert so keep her secret!

Leaving the country even more chaotic, we thought nickel in paperwork, and no, we had made the fatal mistake not to register our transit visas after five days, do not ask me where, i think nobody knows where can find this obscure office.

In short, we broke the rules of the country's immigration and it leaves us with only two options: pay 100 USD each for washing the fault or be banned from Turkmenistan for a year and a half, of course we chose the second option... our passports are now marked with red ink and we know that there will be no return to the road through Turkmenistan.

And after more than six hours stuck in the Turkmen Customs to solve this small problem, the entry into Uzbekistan, watch in hand, was done in half an hour, easy!

Photo: Mosque under construction, Mary, Turkmenistan, 2005

Uzbekistan, july 29 2005

Ok, my visa in hand, Kazakh, Kyrgyz, Chinese... way to the second part of the journey may be the most complicated but it's also what makes the charm of the trip.

Our roads are separated now with Jean-Loup, he will try to return now to China through Kazakhstan, for my part i stay in Uzbekistan until about August 11, when i will also take the leadership of Kazakhstan in an attempt also the entry into China by the Khorgas pass and as a result i then went to Kyrgyzstan to try to go through Irkhestam pass, we may be we will meet in Kashgar...

In the meantime, here are some pictures of Uzbekistan including the cities and steps that were mythical Samarkand and Bukhara on the Silk Road.

Photo: The Juma Mosque, Tashkent, Uzbekistan, 2005

Kazakhstan, august 13 2005

Friday, August 12, it is almost 20h, the rain just stopped, i finally arrive in Alma Ata (Almaty)!

I knew this morning on the basis that the road would be long (over 540 km): it is indeed 10 when i leave Taraz my first step after passing the border, it is not because of fat mat but it was essential to wait the opening of the bank as the hotel dilapidated Russian or spent the night relieved me of my last Tenge

I start strong, i just drive 10 km that i am bitten by an unidentified flying big thing, i swell visibly, suddenly ointment and it goes away.

But now the weather is going to interfere, the look is far in these immense and for a while obscured the horizon, lightning strike the steppe, Aie Aie Aie. Usually i expect to be soaked to equip myself, i always say it's just a little rain, it will pass today, i choose the option foresight and i dress before.

I'm not disappointed, it's a nice flushed, huge puddles form on the bumpy roads, trucks call me a coat, i get the impression at times going off-board, but well it is not cold and then when i take a break, the kindness of Kazakh warms my heart, they are very warm people and encounters on the road is still the time while our friendly exchanges are somewhat limited by my Russian :

Him: Atkuda? (Where you come from?)
Me: Ya francouski (I am French)
Him: wooohh
Him: ipaniema Ruski? (You understand Russian?)
Me: tchou tchou (barely)
Him: Kudai? (Where are you going?)
Me: Alma ata
Him: Patom ? (after?)
Me: kitai (Chinea)
etc, etc
and then me: spassiba, da svidania (thank you, goodbye)

I begin to master this little conversation, i'm about 35 times a day ;o), i almost forgot i also know the words necessary for survival: piwa: beer and gastinitsa: hotel...

As against the scourge Vodka is much more present here than in Turkmenistan or Uzbekistan, i saw more guys packed into two days in two months and a half trip. Yesterday in the flood, on the edge of the straight road, an old Russian car is stopped the doors wide open, a guy beckons me, i think they may have a problem, i stop at its height, it has the blank stare, he articulated with difficulty, in normal times already i can not understand everything... they are completely drunk, i left very quickly.

Back on the road, the clouds will give way to sun, fun and a break that's good because the road will soon turn into a track for repairs. Based on these difficult portions, i found an excellent road but a little rain for the last miles to Almaty. I struggle a bit to find a hotel, the shower is really good that night, it is 22h!

Photo: On the road to Almaty, mausoleum of Aisha Bibi, Kazakhstan, 2005

Kyrgyzstan, august 28 2005

It was time i left the city after these few days in Almaty to consider the future return of the bike and make plans to return to China, i needed to dive back into the trip, to find the nature, unroll my sleeping bag in the Tien Shan (the romantic name of celestial mountains in Chinese) that i stand in the year since i arrived in Kazakhstan.

Direction Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek is the first step, the city keeps me always with its circulation, its agitation, its fast food, but not for long time, after a quick stop Tcholpan Ata, small resort on Lake Issyk Kul, which would the second largest mountain lake after Titicaca, i take the road to Song Kol, another mountain lake, smaller in size but located them to over 3500 meters.

The road is beautiful and winds start in a mineral world, the last fifty kilometers turn into a great track to cross the mountain passes and slopes gently down to the lake. I imagined the lake enclosed in the middle of the peaks and in fact it is a large plateau at very low relief that i discovered.

Some yurts are placed here and there, a young man beckons me, after we presented, Murat invites me for tea, he and his family spent at the lake the summer with their flocks. I ask my tent next to their yurt, i thought overnight stay but actually seduced by the place, i will actually spend more time than expected!

The place is beautiful, a small river flowing nearby, the animals graze freely, we can pass the time counting sheep or watching the flight of birds of prey.

I love the simplicity and sincerity of contact with these people, these are precious moments that i believe in themselves justify all those miles!

After two days, i must still think of leaving Artashes (the locality), i will not go far, the weather at this altitude is very changeable, and i just traveled 30 km of track to avoid the lake from the south and here i am in turmoil, accompanied by an icy rain squalls nails me on the spot.

I will take refuge in a yurt camp, there is a group of Spanish tourists and their guides offer me a hot soup providential, thank you again and Olga Svieta. When the weather is going to release it's too late to get back on track, there are still 140 km to my next step and several passes to go on the track. It will be a night at Song Kol, it gets worse as punishment!

The name of Tash Rabat has always evoked for me the Silk Road (Jibek Joly in Kyrgyz). I had to track this place! This caravanserai of 15th century, which would also be according to some monastery or a fortress, nestles in a valley of the Massif At Bashy leading to a pass at 4000m. What is certain by cons is that this valley was the main axis passing through the Tien Shan massif in the early days of the Silk Road, the road passes current now passes to the south by the Torugart.

On leaving Tash Rabat, i had two options, right Bishkek and left China, i could not resist, so i went to say hello to the Chinese, i could easily get out of Kyrgyzstan, they don ' have not checked that i had not arranged the way, pass the first checkpoint Chinese (with 20 euros anyway) and go to the main checkpoint totally deserted: it is lunch time

When lunch ended, the post comes alive and i'm my case, the response of the chief officer position is clear: no way! and even in Chinese its very clear.

So i have spent only two hours in China, just time for a photo, but it was a bit predictable and i knew the password of Torugart is the strictest possible level crossing formalities. It is imperative to prepare for its entry with an agency that comes to expect the Chinese side through a big pile of greenbacks.

But the ride was beautiful, 200 km of track still go back with a pass at 3700 meters, and all under a bright sun, it was a great experience! I will now return to Kazakhstan, after a brief stint in Bishkek to get a visa Kazakh, and try to re-enter China.

Photo: Yurts of nomads, Song Kol lake, Kyrgyzstan, 2005

China-Kashgar, september 15 2005

That's it, i went to China on September 5th, from Kazakhstan, the border post Druzba, almost as easily as to move from Kyrgyzstan to Kazakhstan, they just checked my luggage seriously, two full searches, big unpacking in front of the customs.

Otherwise they were very friendly, several officials spoke English which helped things much, nothing special at the paperwork, just the passport with the visa and registration papers for my bike, i filled out a customs declaration where my bike was my only object of value... they did not ask me a dollar... and the young customs officer simply asked me if i had a map and told me gently on my way my passport "Have a nice trip".

Now this is where things get complicated, fortunately they are available, there is always someone to guide me spontaneously when i try something and it happens often: a bank, a place to sleep... I began to trouble me in Russian and now everything is re ;o))) I still learned my first words today: xie xie (thank you) and fago or fagoda (French), but i assure you no one understands when i say... otherwise it's great, i just seem to have slipped into another world.

I will now back down to Kashgar... which in fact is the city located on the other hand, only one hundred kilometers from the border post where i got back the first time! It was pretty exciting to ride to Kashgar and this city is one of those places that always attracted me without me really knowing why, perhaps the scent of the exotic, or image of the lost oasis edge of the desert that emerges?

The city has retained few traces of its past on the Silk Road, a few sections of wall of the old city that have withstood time seems suspended in the middle of the concrete and new construction. Yet Kashgar has retained its soul and cosmopolitan merchant city, we came across many Pakistanis, Afghans, Tajiks. He reigns in the streets around the mosque Id Kah agitation amazing, i wonder if there are no more sellers shasliks (kebabs) that i could see the beginning of the trip!

I knew upon entering the Xinjiang province of China that, although the largest of all, was not the true face of China, it is mainly populated by Muslim Uighurs and despite pressure from Beijing to encourage the arrival from the fifties, of Han Chinese from the east, it is unfortunately an attempt at colonization by forced assimilation. The city of Kashgar Uyghur remained, but it has two faces: a modern Chinese city with wide avenues with a place or the huge statue of Mao shows the path of his outstretched arm, and a Uighur town with narrow streets and houses mud, but for how long?

I will now resume the road to Turpan, the southern branch of the Silk Road and then crossing part of the Taklamakan desert.

Photo: Kashgar, the old city, Xinjiang, China, 2005

China-Turpan, september 25 2005

From the beginning of Kashgar, i began to feel the presence of the desert, the air has become warmer, drier, distances became longer, the ribbon of asphalt ahead size in the vastness, with, from time one-time oasis of poplars. Here the enemy is sand, the fight is permanent, you must stop the dunes, to prevent them from cover crops, roads... I feel but i do not see this famous Taklamakan, the terrible name of "countries where there is no return".

The southern route is old, and the cities that the mark: Yarkand, Hotan, i thought the follow up and Turpan, but in these tracts nothing is ever a foregone conclusion. Between Qiemo and Ruoqiang, excellent road i followed already almost 350 km, suddenly turns on the track, it is 15h, i have a liter of water, the village where i thought my supply and my card was located about 80km after the start of the track is still visible after 100km... I probably missed taking a bit to the west and there is still at least 250 km of track in front of me!

This path is hardly popular since the opening of the desert highway, in 2 hours i think some camels grazing quietly, my bike began to accuse the weight of the trip, only the solution needed more than i choose it, turn around. This will give me the opportunity to take the next day the famous trans-desert i wanted to avoid at the beginning because i could not know what i could refuel. Anyway, since i drive in that area, i ship an additional tank of 10 liters strap on the saddle which allows me to be much calmer regarding autonomy, under condition to fill it... In desert region, it is important to remember the rule to always repeat the full, water and fuel, where possible.

I leave very early Qiemo that day, with all the full facts this time. I wake a policeman who was sleeping in his sleeping bag at the roadside, i must be the first to go through it this morning, the sound of the DR has awakened from his sleep a little abruptly, it's hard to s 'remove from his bag and regain his senses, i asked if management is good and it confirms completely stupid but do not ask me my passport! A little further on a truck is stopped, the driver also confirms, i need to reassure me. Here, finally, the desert, i ride in the middle of an ocean of sand, it is still early, the light is beautiful and cutting the shadows of the dunes is a fabulous show. The Chinese built a road there incredible 500 km of bitumen through the desert, it's a daunting task to prevent the desert to reclaim its space.

Of the first 200 km, the dunes on the edge of the road are stabilized by a kind of lattice of reeds buried in the sand and then after they planted vegetation on roadsides and installed an irrigation system of nearly 300 km, incredible... The supply is there, at about the middle of the desert, right next to an oil field, the Taklamakan also contains wealth.

Turpan has the distinction of being located below sea level, its hot and dry climate is conducive to growing grapes, the bulk of production will be turned into raisins. But this oasis owes its survival to a highly developed irrigation system: the Karez, an underground network of canals dug by hand and that can collect water from the nearby mountains, the oldest would have almost 2000 years. Around Turpan are also rich in ancient cities, Jiaoche, Gaochang, which was the capital of the Uighur to the 7 th century, but also old Buddhist places of worship.

People are very welcoming, it's just a bunch of grapes offered to visit a vineyard so i'm looking my way or invitation to take a few cups of tea, but they are very touching gestures.

Photo: Desert Highway, Xinjiang, China, 2005

China-Xi'An, october 7 2005

Xian, the starting point of the Silk Road in the past and present arrived for me!

The road from Turpan has been superb, dotted with beautiful steps, remnants of the great wall near Dunhuang, Jade's door that once crossed the caravans leaving on the northern route, Jiayugan again with the Great Wall, then the Hexi Corridor where the track between the mountains and the Great Wall was replaced by the highway. You must tell me if i get drunk with the great wall, but i love and it was such a pleasure to follow the tracks on a motorcycle.

China have me surprised, i had a priori to (!), i imagined the cold country, closed and in fact i found people open, lively and spirited, happy to cross a abroad visiting their country, they easily swept the ghosts of the past. My only regret is not being able to communicate very little with them, the language barrier is really hard to overcome!

The Chinese can be as adorable as disconcerting, as when your neighbor at the table in the restaurant clears her throat deep to make a spit at your feet without an absolute embarrassment compared to our Western standards, but also willing to help service and if they do not want, they do not bother principles...

Stay tuned for the latest news from Beijing... just before the return.

Photo: The walls of Xi'an, between past and present, China, 2005

China-Beijing, october 24 2005

And that's the end of the road, Beijing... in my heart i believe never imagined that one day i could get here on a motorcycle... I'm really pleased to be able to make this trip is a dream come true!

But after this great experience, i am also very happy to return "home".

Thank you for your messages throughout the trip, who supported me and encouraged

I leave you some pictures of Beijing before flying to France.

Christophe

Photo: Street scene in front of Heavenly Peace, Beijing, China, 2005

Riding in China : Feedback, january 01 2006

Well, after this wonderful travel, i would like to share my experience. I was may be lucky to be allowed to go into China independently and ride from Druzba (Kazakhstan) to Beijing.

First, it seems to me important to keep in mind that in these countries, what is true one day may be wrong the next one... and before being successful in border crossing, i was turn back in the Torugart 11 days before. I knew exactly before trying at this place it was probably the most umpredictable border from central asia, but i was so near (Tash Rabat), and i have a double entry Kirghyz visa, then i decided to try.

Without any surprise, they don't let me cross the border, but it could have been possible an other day (i was there on friday and they will close soon for week-end). This may have work only if i have book my journey with a chinese travel agency which will provide me a guide to Kashgar... etc, etc. A chinese guide who was there to pick-up some tourist can provide me this service for 150 USD, and except this no way !!! In fact, the most complicate was to cross the first checkpoint, i have to talk for a long time with the guards and it cost me 20 euros to do that !!! But no regrets, even if i don't like so much to pay this kind of fee, i have to try !

1500km later, i face again chinese border at Druzba check point in Kazakhstan, compare to others "Stans", it was quite difficult to leave Kazakhstan ; they check carefully my papers and all my bags. After five hundred meter, i meet the first chinese post, i have to open again all my bags, they check again everything but they let me go easily without paying anything, nobody there spoke english.

The main custom office was not far, i arrived there at lunch time and there was nobody. When they come back, i was worrying a litle and in fact it was cool. A small part of the staff was speaking english, they were friendly and helpful, and all the paperwork was done in one hour, the bike was not a problem, i just have to put it on the custom declaration form and nothing more, of course no guide and nothing to pay ! i was really surprised, and when they stamp my passport, i was near to shout "YESSSSS" !!!

The officer was really intererested in my trip, and something which seems very important for him was to show him i have a map, and also I know exactly where i was and where i plan to go ; my feeling is that he wanted to be sure that i won't be lost as soon as i leave the customs. After shaking hand, he wish me "have a nice trip !".

What a strange feeeling when i leave this place, i was so happy, but in other hand i feel a little bit lost... and frightened by this huge country. I don't ride more than 5 km and police stops me, it was fun, they doesn't expect to find a people like me under the helmet !!!, they just check my passport and let me go. This is exactly what happened each time the police stops me on the road during the month and half i spent in china. We cannot communicate et they don't know what to do with me. During this kind of control, asking to confirm the road and showing the map was a "sesame".

There is just one exception, one day i was on a trail in a remote area in Xinjiang, the police stops me in a village, they want to see my "permit", i have nothing and of course they don't want my driving licence, they look very angry and ask me to go back from where i was coming, one of them which seems to be the chief told me "Go back to Kazakhstan !", but they don't do more, i just have to go back and find an other way, it was on trails in high mountains and this day it was not far from midnight when i arrived in Balguntay.

My feeling is that Chinese authorities don't want to have any trouble with foreigners, in my opinion they want to behave like a big democratic country and they don't really care if you are or not compliant with chinese road regulation. Except this problem in Bayanbulak, i was really free to move and usually policemen were more interested to play with their mobile phone along the road than checking my papers, very often they stops chinese cars or trucks and let me go. In many occasions, they help me to find my way.

One day, i meet on the road in Gansu an english guy, who was living and working in Beijing. He was travelling with a 3 wheel cj750 through China, and doesn't have any bad experiences about driving in China.

In other hand, i think i could be in deep trouble if i was involved in an accident, but this was also true for many countries i have crossed before, and it's so great to travel like this, then… At least, i believe the most important is to keep smiling.

Thanks for reading and sorry for my poor english ;o)

Christophe